Globe Corner Blogs

Last week I had the opportunity to go to both my native hometown of Boise, Idaho and my adopted hometown of Seattle for a vacation. I had a lot of family to see, so I had to limit my time in Seattle to 36 hours, but there’s a lot one can do in 36 hours in Seattle! Recently, the NYT edited a book of the best of their feature “36 Hours” highlighting weekend jaunts across America. Of course, if you’ve never been to Seattle before, then Pike Place Market and the Space Needle are probably musts. But if you’ve lived in the Emerald City like me, and it’s been a while since you’ve been back, then your trip might look a little different.

So here ’tis, my 36 Hours in Seattle itinerary:

As soon as we landed, my husband and I were famished. Six hours on a plane with only crackers will do that. But we REFUSED to eat at the airport, and instead booked it for the nice new Link Light Rail, a high speed train that zips from Sea-Tac airport through South Seattle and deposits travelers downtown. They’re currently laying track to extend the rail to Capitol Hill and the University District, two hoppin’ neighborhoods with plenty to do. When that happens, the Link Light Rail will be a nascent T…one of the only ones out West. So, we hopped on the train for a mere $2.75, took the train downtown, hopped on the 43 bus that deposited us on Broadway Ave, the main street that runs through Capitol Hill, a funky neighborhood of awesome restaurants, lots of nightlife and a few great bookstores. It’s also where parts of Tom Robbins’ Jitterbug Perfume take place. From there it was but a mere block walk to Dick’s, the ultimate burger joint and a must for any Seattleite carnivore. Here there are basically four things on the menu and you can’t customize. So the line moves fast, you get your food immediately and it’s perfect every time. So magical.

Portland State University Farmer's Market--photo by Jess

Saturday being one of my two full days in Portland (read more about my whole trip here!), I woke up early, ate a quick and free breakfast at the hostel, and headed across the river. I’d heard of the famed Saturday Market (a “must-see” according to Moon Handbook Guide to Portland), and so I decided to spend the day exploring the Pearl Art District and downtown. I got off the bus at around 10:00am and started walking north for the 12 – 15 blocks it takes to reach Ankeny Plaza and the Saturday Market. As I made my way up and across 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Avenues, one thing became clear: No one was around.

The streets were empty; in both directions I saw no one save the lone fixed-gear bikers passing me by. When the MAX rail made its stop on the quaint cobblestone street, no one got off and no one got on. Ghostly. Where do Portlanders go on Saturday morning? I wonder. I found my answer, sort of, when I reached the Market. Rows and rows of merchants selling handcrafted soaps, jewelry, ceramics and more mix with a collection of food carts serving up Himalayan, Greek, New England, and Asian cuisines. Continue Reading »

Whenever Portland, Oregon has come up in conversation, which was more frequently than I’d expect given my proximity to the other Portland (the one in Maine), I hear raves. To me, Portland has become synonymous with, “I think you’d love it there,” and, “It’s the perfect city!” Within the last year, two of my co-workers went, and it’s become a mini-mecca for a certain eco-minded set of college grads. Could Portland really be that awesome? Would I forever deride the overcrowded, sprawling cityscape of New York City at first sight of Mt. Hood, Powell’s bookstore, and Stumptown coffee?

After spending just three nights and two full days in Portland, I understood the appeal:  copper-fixtured drinking fountains lined the streets, delicious gourmet food carts every few blocks, microbrewery happy hours, and a completely efficient public transportation system. And, while I didn’t up and leave New York City, I had quite a great time in the Bridge City. Read on for some tips and highlights from my trip: Continue Reading »

36' Bavaria--photo by Creelea

May 24, 2009

Today we set sail from Anacortes–Dad, Mom, the Squirrel (my sister), and I. Our ship is a 36′ Bavaria named “Escape!”

I suppose we are escaping, as the yellow bluffs of Guemes slip back and flatten against the silhouette of Mount Baker. By 5:30 pm we are all adding layers of silk and smartwool against the wet chill that settles on limbs too long at rest. After fighting the spring tide for some hours, we’ve changed course and put in at Spencer’s Spit on Lopez Island. Mom and I served omelet, smoked salmon, and arugula for dinner. Dad poured a Champagne toast. Around us boats at anchor plash gently, drifting closer then farther.

At dusk, the shoreline is etched white in parched timber. After dark, camper’s tents glow like festive lanterns under bristling black pines.

Dancer and Mask--photo by Lisa

Last week I had the rare opportunity to leave rainy Boston and head to sunny Seattle. Thankfully the weather was perfect for my family, friends, and me to take a cruise to Blake Island State Park in Puget Sound. Our main objective was to go to Tillicum Village for a traditional Northwest Native American Potlach.  Traditional Potlachs are ceremonies practiced by Native Northwest Indigenous Peoples where the tribal leaders would gather guests for a redistribution of wealth; they usually included dances and feasts. We went to see the tourist-friendly modified show.

Potlach Dinner--photo by Lisa

Blake Island is a beautiful island that is only accessible by tour or private boat. Among the many attractions are hiking trails and a long house that was built in 1962 to help showcase Northwest Native American Culture for the Seattle World’s Fair. Today the long house still serves as a showcase and there are tours of it during the summer. Boats leave from Pier 55 and there is a narrated hour-long cruise through Elliot Bay into Puget Sound all the way to Blake Island. We were greeted with a cup of clam nectar and then led into the long house for a “smorgasbord-style” salmon dinner. After the dinner the lights dimmed and the dancers began to demonstrate different dances from the region. The masks were impressive and one even weighed more than 55 pounds.

It was a great way to spend a sunny Sunday afternoon and the views of the Seattle skyline were picture perfect. I was so surprised to return from Seattle with a tan.

Sea of Glory --by Nathaniel Philbrick

I know it is not the most “sophisticated’ way to evaluate a book, but if the book is so engrossing that I miss my stop on the subway…I consider it to be really good. Sea of Glory by Nathaniel Philbrick is one of those books. I am only halfway through the book, but it caused me to do some exploring of my own this morning as I totally missed my subway stop and ended up in a part of Boston I have never been to before.

Philbrick tells the story of the voyage of the U.S. Exploring Expedition of 1838 – 1842 led by Charles Wilkes; an exploration of the Pacific Ocean. Growing up on the Pacific Ocean, one would think that I would have heard of or possibly learned about this historic feat. But I really don’t recall ever hearing about Charles Wilkes, and I lived in a town where all the schools were named after Pacific Northwest explorers. (I went to McLaughlin.) In this book, Philbrick explains why the U.S. Exploring Expedition–who mapped nearly all of the Pacific Ocean, named Antarctica, and collected a sizable collection of exotic specimens that became the foundation of the Smithsonian Institution–is basically unknown. Just don’t pick it up if you have any pressing engagements.

Explorer's Guide to Washington

Whenever I bring friends back to Seattle to visit my parents with me, they are subjected to my Dad’s special tour of the city. He loves to show off his native city and talk about his three favorite things: Boeing, University of Washington Huskies and the price of gas. First, we have to go on a driving tour so that he can point out all of the landmarks that we happen to pass while he is looking for free parking. He usually throws out fascinating tidbits of information such as how the best place to be in a earthquake is on top of the Space Needle since it is anchored down so deeply and how everything has an Elvis connection as The King filmed a movie at the Seattle World’s Fair in 1962.

Then off to a restaurant where we are force fed Olympia Oysters, whichever salmon he deems worthy, asparagus and Washington wine from the Walla Walla Valley. Next we drive to West Seattle, so we can get one of the best views of the Seattle Skyline, and he can point out more sights such as the the Space Needle, Pike Place Market and the new stadiums. Continue Reading »