Globe Corner Blogs

Teatro Heredia--photo by Harriet

We have definitely traded the New England chills for the baking sun of Cartageña. Attending Hay Festival Cartageña events last year was a bit of unexpected good fortune as our days in Cartagena coincided with the start of the festival. Sessions of the international literary event at the Teatro Heredia – with its gold ornamentation, heavenly mural on the ceiling, and traditional balcony boxes – were amazing.

A chance to return to the festival easily trumped any other late January travel plans. The walled city’s plazas, fountains, well-preserved buildings, boutique shops, and vendor-lined cobble-stone streets seem as breathtakingly glorious in tonight’s steamy dusk as in the predictable mid-day heat. This historic port flourishes as a cultural travel destination. The vibrancy of daily activity and Caribbean colors are mesmerizing as we wander, pause in sculptured squares, visit a cafe, and plan our route to festival sites.

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Cartagena--photo by Harriet

We arrived in Cartageña to welcome sun and humidity. The 5-10 minute stroll along the harbor, from our hotel in the Getsemaní district to the entrance to the walled city, was glorious even during the mid-day heat. The walled city’s many plazas, varied retail districts, cobblestone streets, and beautifully maintained or restored buildings were breathtaking. It was reassuring to be in a historic port–a cultural travel destination that still somehow retains a sense of everyday life. We wandered down narrow streets, gazing at colorful buildings, pausing in plazas (many with fountains) to take in cafes, check our map, and plan our next route to a museum or church. Continue Reading »

Ciclovia Sign --photo by Pat

The highlight of a recent trip to Colombia was the opportunity to participate in Bogotá’s “Ciclovia.” Every Sunday, year-round, the city of Bogotá closes off over 120 kilometers of streets to traffic from 7 am to 2 pm. And, in a city of seven million, well over a million turn out to bike, roller-blade, jog, dog walk, or just promenade in their Sunday finest on the blessedly car-free streets.

What a transformation for a city that a decade ago warranted a chapter in Robert Pelton’s “World’s Most Dangerous Places.” Citizens have reclaimed the streets and civic life; Ciclovia is a joyous manifestation of the pride, good humor, and optimism of Bogotá’s residents. There’s a spring in folks’ step here that was unexpected (at least for me) — a confidence that the future is going to be better than the past.

We were staying in Usaquén on the northern fringe of Bogotá and our host

Ciclovia --photo by Pat

kindly provided bikes for a Sunday morning in late January. The beginning (or end, depending on your point of view) of one of the major routes of Ciclovia starts in Usaquén and runs into the central district of Bogotá on Carrera Séptima. Although flatlanders who haven’t acclimated to the 8600 foot elevation may feel the effects of the high altitude, the north/south routes in the city are essentially flat and make for very pleasant biking. Continue Reading »