Globe Corner Blogs

I climbed Kilimanjaro in the fall of 2006, taking the Machame route. The Machame route is arguably the most scenic: camera crews having chosen this route for the Kilimanjaro iMax movie. It is also one of the longer routes and one of the more arduous.

The Machame route, however, is not a technical climb and requires no previous mountaineering skills. I will add, though, that some ropes may have proved comforting when faced with the 1,000-foot drop above jagged rocks and the leap requiring lots of faith to get to the other side of the path.  The summit was not as easily reached as I had suspected, based on the large number of tourists who climb it every year. It took seven days of hiking for six to eighteen hours per day. Clouds often obstructed our promised good view, but sometimes I got a rare glimpse of the spectacular scenery as though I was in an airplane taking aerial photographs.

We left for the summit at midnight on the fifth day–there was not enough oxygen at the elevation of our camp to sleep anyway. As we grew ever closer to the summit, the lack of oxygen was easy to succumb to: many times when we were taking a rest, all I wanted to do was lay down and sleep. (If I had, I may never have woken up! A scary thought!) There was also snow and a minor blizzard, which would have covered me had I chosen to rest for too long. If it weren’t for our two crazy and competent guides, Peter and Ali, constantly telling us to get up and “rock and roll” (I don’t think Peter knew how to say “go” in English), then I wouldn’t have made it. The headache came at about 16,000 feet and grew blinding as I neared the summit. I saw spots and was dizzy. I thought I would lose my vision altogether. I crawled part of the way to the summit. I saw grown, fit men vomit blood.

With much encouragement, we reached the roof of Africa at 7:30 am on Thanksgiving morning to an unfortunately cloudy view. Gasping for breath, we waited our turn to get our picture taken by the summit sign while our guides talked casually and smoked cigarettes at 19,340 feet. I was truly amazed.

The way down was no less challenging, though much quicker.  After summiting, we skiied in our boots down fine mountain scree for four consecutive hours, feet jamming against the tops of our hiking boots, causing me to lose multiple toenails.

In a word, Kilimanjaro was challenging. Mentally, physically, everything. We slept every night, despite the changing climate, in sleeping bags and tents. We had no toilet facilities or showers for eight days. I wouldn’t have wished my presence upon anyone the morning we came down the mountain! I thanked God for my ski poles, which became extensions of my arms. They gave this two legged creature four and saved me from turning many near-death experiences into death experiences. I escaped Kilimanjaro with several things: an appetite that would frighten even the most carnivorous of African beasts, calf muscles that could cut glass, and a burning, aching desire to never climb or even see another mountain for a very very very long time.

For me it was a once in a lifetime experience.  Kilimanjaro has everything; gorgeous views, the chance to see seven different ecosystems in the span of one climb, and of course, those infamous (and still icy) glaciers. But, Kilimanjaro for me was just that–a once in a lifetime experience.

If you choose to climb Kilimanjaro, I recommend blocking in a week or so at the end of your trip to take the short trek up to Zanzibar for some much needed R&R. I ended up staying for two weeks in the hammocks of Nungwi!  Also, if you want to hear more about Kilimanjaro and another perspective of tackling Africa’s monster, come to our event on Wednesday, September 30th at 6pm.  It will be held at the A.R.T. Meeting Room at 2 Arrow Street in Harvard Square.

Read more: Africa, Hiking, Kilimanjaro, Solo Travel, Tours, Travel


Meghan went around the world in 2006, and is dying to do it again. Meghan loves all things ocean and enjoys scuba diving in exotic locales.

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